In the last few years, makeup has had a huge glow up – literally. From subtle dewiness, to dolphin skin and, most recently, glazed donut skin, highlighter and illuminator have taken prime position in our makeup routines, gracing the tops of our cheekbones and Cupid’s bows at every opportunity.
But just as all beauty trends mature over time, the glowing look has also evolved, and is now almost unrecognisable from the first shimmies of glitter that burst onto the scene after a decade of devotion to Dream Matte Mousse.
Today’s glow is more of a wet-look yet natural-looking brilliance – a dewy, but never greasy, lacquer that glosses over the entire face, with particular shine on key focal points. To achieve the look, it’s essential to use the right products in the right places, and that means understanding the difference between highlighter and illuminator. We called upon the experts to clear up any confusion…
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What is the difference between highlighter and illuminator?
It may not seem like there’s much to it, but knowing the difference between a highlighter and illuminator could be the difference between looking like a disco ball, or looking like a radiant goddess.
The main difference: Highlighter is for concentrated areas of light, while an illuminator creates the illusion of light more generally across the skin.
“I would class an illuminator as a product formulated with finer pearls I could use to add luminosity to skin overall,” explains Jamie Genevieve, makeup artist and founder of beauty brand Vieve, . “A highlight is usually a lot more concentrated, sometimes with added sparkle, and is meant for pure glow. Perfect for a more intense look on the high points of the face and body.”
Makeup artist Cher Webb agrees, stating that highlighter is the key to maximum glow on specific areas of the face, whereas an illuminator can be used in a multitude of ways for all over radiance: “An illuminator is a secret weapon when it comes to radiant, healthy looking skin that glows from within, but highlighter is a huge hit when it comes to adding maximum glow and bounce to the higher points of the face.”
For Bobbi Brown pro makeup artist Hollie Ellis, illuminators are best when emulating a natural skin look. “An illuminator replicates skin’s natural moisture,” she explains. “A highlighter brings light and focus to the bone structure.”
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Where should you apply illuminator and highlighter?
The experts agree that an illuminator is the more versatile of the two, due to the fact it is more subtle. “You can apply an illuminator straight to skin, or mix with my moisturiser or foundation to apply all over the face,” says Jamie. “It’s the kind of product you can wear alone with a coat of mascara and a touch of lip balm for that polished ‘no-makeup’ makeup look.”
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Hollie agrees: “if you want to create a ‘lit from within’ glow to achieve luminosity through the skin, you can either apply all over the face before makeup, or you can mix it into your foundation to create your perfect hydrated skin tint. You can also apply on top of makeup to the high points of the face for a more subtle healthy highlighted finish.”
Highlighter on the other hand, should be applied strategically. Hollie explains that you only want to apply highlighter at the high planes of the face, where light hits naturally. “This is normally the top of the cheek bones, temples, below and above the brows, the bridge and the tip of the nose, the Cupid’s bow and a little on the chin,” she says.
If you’ve opted for a powder formula (which is a great choice for oilier skin types), Jamie recommends using a small fluffy brush to buff into skin. “If you are trying out liquid or cream formulas – tapping the product in with finger tips will melt it into your skin leaving a seamless finish.”
For the glow obsessives, you can layer your highlighter on top of illuminator for both an all over radiance and to spotlight specific features. “I personally use both daily no matter how much makeup I’m using, radiant skin is always my go to!” Jamie adds.
The best illuminators
Bobbi Brown Extra Illuminating Moisture Balm in Bare Glow, £46, Boots
“This balm has skin-improving benefits for long term hydration and imparts a healthy glow with pearl particles,” says Hollie. “It works on all skin tones and brings back that natural radiance to the skin.”
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Laura Mercier Pure Canvas Illuminating Primer, £34, LookFantastic
“It creates a glass-like skin with a soft veil plus key ingredients to nourish and enhance staying power,” says Cher.
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Vieve Skin Nova, £27, Cult Beauty
“It’s a universal radiance multitasker that can be used alone, as a primer or mixed with your other base products to add true luminosity to all skin tones,” explains Jamie.
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The best highlighters
Clinique Chubby Stick Sculpting Hefty-Highlight, £21, John Lewis
“If you prefer a cream highlighter, this is a luminous lightweight cream that is so easy to use and perfect for makeup on the go,” recommends Cher. “There’s always one of these in my daily makeup bag.”
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Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powder Highlighter, £45, Space NK
“I always carry these in my makeup artist kit as they are so flattering on the skin and mimic the natural skin tones,” adds Cher. “They’re formulated with ultra-fine micro pearl particles which create a more natural, less metallic finish.”
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Inspired to get glowing? Check up our round up of the best highlighters as well as the ultimate hacks for your most radiant skin ever.
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